Camlock Couplings Explained

1. Basic Structure: A simple, crude mechanical lock
Male Plug: Raised teeth on the front and a rubber ring groove, like a cork with teeth.
Female Socket: L-shaped slots on the inner wall and a cam handle, like a trap.
Material:
Aluminum: Light and cheap, not acid-resistant.
Stainless steel: Corrosion-resistant, but expensive.
Plastic: Suitable for chemicals, don't step on it.

2. Working Principle: Lever lock
Insertion: Push the male plug into the female connector, and the teeth slide into the L-slot (even if it's crooked, a kick will do).
Pressing: Pull the cam handle, locking the male teeth like a switch.
Tightening: The cam locks itself when vibrating, so it won't loosen even after a truck shakes all night.

3. Sealing relies on "softness," not "precision."
Rubber gasket:
Fills metal scratches.
Traps sand and dirt. Even minor deformations can be sealed.
No matter how rough the metal surface: Deep lathe cuts? No problem; the rubber is soft enough to seal.

4. Three Core Advantages
Fast: Tighten in 3 seconds with a twist of the handle, 10 times faster than flange bolts.
Rough: Mud-smeared? Rinse and continue using; the threaded joint will be ruined.
Economical: Only one side needs to be replaced if damaged; the flange needs to be cut and re-welded.

5. Deadly Taboos
No High-Pressure Gas: Compressed air can shatter the cam (design limit ≈ 10 barg).
No Ultra-Pure Fluids: Trace amounts of rubber extractables can contaminate pharmaceutical solutions/chip chemicals.
No Brute Force Repairs: Hammering the aluminum cam will permanently deform it; only arm leverage is required.

6. Classic Applications
Tank Truck Unloading: Quick release and anti-slip, a driver's favorite.
Farm Irrigation: Mud-smeared? Connect the hose and flush.
Chemical Plant Discharge: Acid leak? Replace with a fluororubber gasket.